The new bushings for the pedal cluster are installed.
The horn seems to have fixed itself and now bleats.
I've been working more on my project convert the WEB site to static HTML. A few problems were
found in the implementation and there are probably more, I'll continue
to test but I'm moving the changes to the production server today.
Jumping Gear Shift
It is common in 912s for the gear shift to 'jump' when going over a
bump. It sometimes is so bad that it will jump out of gear. This has
been a problem with my car, but it has changed a lot as we have
maintained the car. It was not a problem when we got the car.
But the shifting was extremely vague so all the plastic
bushings in the shift linkage were replaced. I noticed a large crack
in one of the front motor mounts, so they were both replaced. Now the
jumping gear shift was very active. I'd hold on to the shift knob
when driving down some streets near our house. Certain irregularities
in the road combined with the suspension dynamics to cause the
engine-transmission to oscillate against the motor mounts in such a way
to cause violent movements in the gear shift linkage.
I was considering changing the motor mounts to the 911 version, a
Driving over speed bumps had to be done very slowly during all
these early months because if any speed was carried at all, it seemed
as if the car would become airborne, leaping off the bump back to the
pavement. So I adjusted all 4 Koni shocks to their softest position.
This fixed the speed bump problem.
I also found the bushings that isolate the rear torsion bars to the
body were deformed enough that the suspension was resting on the
carrier plates. The old rubber bushings were replaced with plastic
ones. Now the rear suspension stopped making noise and seems more
compliant, a definite improvement in ride.
I was thinking about all this while driving home last night from
work because the jumping gear shift problem is almost gone. It still
occurs once and a while, but I do not grab the shift knob on certain
streets any more. It is an interesting study in the interaction of
Gabe from Strasse
said, "Oh, you need the pedal bushing kit. We have those in
stock.", in answer to my question about the pedal cluster - see
below. Factory plastic bushings are replaced with brass ones that
don't wear out and disappear into dust.
I looked at my pedal
cluster to understand why the brake pedal was sticky and found
that there are some missing bushings.
Notice: I am transitioning the internal construction of the
site away from Java servlets with data stored in a database.
Presently HTML pages are created dynamically, but content is
static. The new methodology will create static HTML pages. What does
this mean to you? Because the page URLs are changing, it would be best
not to book mark any page except the home page:
There is some stickiness in the brake pedal bearing.
I adjusted the heater gate valves today and
wrote a bit
on it. As you would expect, it puts out a lot more hot air now than
before. Of course, I'm still glad I live in California and not
upstate New York where it is currently 10 deg F (-13 deg C) at my
brother's house in Ithaca.
After a bit of graphite was squirted into the door locks the key turns
much easier. The graphite dispenser is from any car parts store and is a
plastic squeeze container with a long thin hollow metal needle that
can be inserted into the key hole.
modification is for the altitude impaired (I am 5' 8"). I found
some square steel tubing at the hardware store ($9 for 48 in.) that I
put under the seat rails to raise the drivers seat by an inch. The
tubing was cut to 14 in. and two holes drilled 11 3/4 in. apart to
match the existing mounting holes. I used some 2 in. bolts to mount
the whole assembly to the the seat. If you want to do the same with
the stock seats, the only problem would be getting proper length
longer metric cap screws. Since the seat rails on the 944 seats in my
car are narrower than stock, I put the tubing between the seat rails
and the adapter mounting plates as shown in the picture.
It is frosty this morning. I wonder if the heater can be adjusted to
put out more heat -- the answer has to be 'yes'.
We worked inside all week-end. The little car was not
touched. Guests from France and Reunion Island are coming for
My WEB server seems to have stopped communicating with the Internet
from 09:21 PST 15 Nov. until I re-booted it at 19:18 PST on 16 Nov.
Sorry for that if anyone tried to access it during those 35 hours
It was communicating on my intranet just fine, so I did not realize
there was a problem until I tried to check the site from work today.
Off-topic: I have changed to a digital camera for the WEB and
wrote a few paragraphs on how images
are produced for the WEB.
The new bushings have made the rear end squeak noises go away, but the
handling has not improved. I still can think of some more work to do
on the suspension, then it will need to to have the alignment checked
I replaced the 4 rear spring plate bushings today.
Over the weekend, I adjusted the valves, replaced one of the rubber
seals around the rear tail light and did an inspection of the spring plate bushings and added a
picture of a side view of the car. I have
ordered a set of plastic bushings for the rear suspension from
Added some pictures of the Momo steering wheel
I redid the menus, deleting 'Maintenance' and substituting
'Faq'. The information in
'Maintenance' overlaps 'News', so these were
combined. I split the 'News' into two sections.
The transmission is leaking oil. Sigh. At least the engine is now
It is raining in sunny California this week-end. Glad the garage has
a roof. Week-end maintenance:
- Replaced the forward rubber bushings on the front suspension with
Porsche PN 914.341.422.00. We are looking for inexpensive pieces to
change to improve the slight tendency to wander at freeway speeds.
is a picture of the old bushing taken when the front pan was repaired.
No improvement, still wondering why we wander.
- There is an 'under shield' covering the steering gear assembly
which was removed while changing the rubber bushings. While it was off
the I removed some light surface rust and painted it with Rust-Oleum
Rusty Metal Primer and under-coating.
- Painted the windshield wiper arms black to match the new blades. I
used a spray can with glossy paint and may wish I had used semi-gloss.
- Rebuilt the fuel pump which had been
leaking a bit of gas.
- Added diagram of the front
suspension to the manual pages.
Preliminary report on
the new Momo steering wheel: Smaller in diameter makes small hand
movements translate into quicker steering; the car seems more
responsive. The larger thickness is much more natural to hands that
are conditioned by the modern Boxster and Disco designs. I like the
appearance and will take a picture so you can judge for yourself. That
part is good. However, the smaller wheel diameter also obscures the
top right quadrant of the speedometer. You have to peek around it to
see the pointer at freeway speeds. The mounting hub puts the steering
wheel closer to the driver so turn signals are further away than
before. My fingers have waved empty air instead of signaling a couple
of times. These negatives will cause comfortable transition to be a
bit longer than I expected. The hub design makes the wheel
collapsible in a collision. It may be safer than the old one.
The day after changing the wiper blades, it started to rain and
again today so the 912 stayed home in the garage. I have never heard
that new blades causes rain.
The current issue Classic & Sports Cars magazine has an article
on cavity waxes. These materials do not seem to be discussed much in
the U.S, but are designed to be placed in hard to reach areas such as
fender wells and door bottoms to prevent rust from forming. Any
pre-existing rust should be first converted from ferrous oxide with an
acid wash. Their recommended product brand is Dinitrol, an English
product that may not be available here. The magazine considers the
materials required for old daily driver cars.
New parts arrived today!
I installed the new Momo steering wheel and changed the wiper
blades. Interesting that the horn still does not work even though
there is now a working horn button.
I have started on a FAQ that I expect to expand
and integrate it into the menus.
Added a gas mileage summary to the
A car hit a power pole near the house tonight and knocked the power
out for a few hours which took the site down. Everything seems to be
We are working on a new parts order including a
Silver painted wiper blades and arms that rest in front of the
passenger like mine are out of distribution. Later ones (1968+) are
black and rest on the drivers side. A common solution (seen on
several concours entries - wonder if points are lost) seems to be to
repaint the arms black and use the new Bosch black blades.
Added Gas and changed the oil but mostly just driving the little car,
and it is running great. I did discover that the fuel pump is leaking
a bit of gasoline. I need to replace some seals.
Rick and I went to the Blackhawk Museum
On Saturday. If you like old cars, particularly the classic period
beginning in the late '20s, and you don't know about this place it is
a must see. It was the first time for both of us. I have no idea
what the value of these are but it must be significantly more than
Added pictures of Sundays
Concours and Swap Meet at Parts Heaven, a page about my new
speaker installation and a
picture of my 944 seats.
Very little oil is now dripping from the engine. Most of that
problem was fixed with the replacement of the oil pressure switch.
The top surfaces of the engine are again clean and stay that way.
A suggestion was made at the swap meet on Sunday that the wandering
problem might be front shocks. The rears are easy to remove and
check. The fronts are not. Time to poke the parts chain?
There is still may be something going on with the suspension that
the laser alignment did not find. I think the slight wandering above
65 MPH is better, but the car still does not track at these speeds as
well as I think it should. It does not seem dangerous, just not
perfect. Of course the Boxster is rock solid at 120+ MPH. Am I just
The laser alignment found nearly 2 degrees of toe out which could
cause the 'wandering' on the highway that I have been concerned
with. This maintenance was mostly for piece of mind. Evidently the
car is not twisted, and unless something traumatic happens to it, we
will not have to have these measurements done again. I have no
capability to know if the other components of the suspension are
aligned or not. As it turns out, they were fine. The measurements
included toe-in, caster, and camber of both the front and rear wheels.
The only easy adjustment on these old cars is front wheel toe-in,
which was adjusted. The other measurements showed the suspension to
be within factory tolerances. Later cars have the ability to move the
top of the front shocks around which can change caster and camber of
the front suspension.
The oil pressure switch had been leaking oil. We installed a new
one that is dry at the end of the day. Problem may be fixed.
Added a manual entry on the
quarter window rubber molding
Took the car to check and align the suspension. This shop has a
full four wheel laser alignment jig. It should be done tomorrow.
Here is a status report summarizing the last
four months with my 912.
Worked some more on the driver's door by adjusting the
striker. Enlarged the holes in order to move the top of the striker
plate closer to the center line and the bottom to the outside. It gets
better with each try. Added some of the left over sound damping
material to the inside of the doors. Fixed a rattle inside the drivers
rear window started to rattle. The window seal was old, hard, brittle
and broken. Inspection showed that pieces of the seal had fallen out
and others were loose an rattling. I had replaced the rubber on the
other side in June. The after market seal is really not the correct
version. The original has a rib that fits snugly into the slot around
the window. The new one has to be glued on with 3M Trim Adhesive. We
were surprised at the improvement in the noise level this fix
made. Engine noise at highway speeds is finally to an acceptable
level. This is good news.
I just noticed this:
BENNINGTON, Vt., July 21, 2000 /PRNewswire/ -- Hemmings Motor
News, ``the bible of the old car hobby, has announced its 13th annual
``top ten picks of ``sleeper cars overlooked collector cars which will
appear in the November issue of Special Interest Autos, its bi-monthly
(9) Porsche 912, 1966-69
Perhaps the greatest sports car ever built was Porsches 911. The
ultimate drivers car, it offered exceptional handling, fantastic
brakes and a high- revving flat-six air-cooled engine that was as
powerful as it was reliable, all in a cozy fastback body. With the
911s price tag too steep for what some enthusiasts can afford,
Porsches entry level 912 makes a perfect alternative sports car for
those willing to accept a reduction in power. With either a 90 or a
102 horsepower flat-four instead of Porsches distinctive six, the 912
rewarded its drivers with slightly better handling than the faster 911
due to the 912s lower weight and better balance. The 912s maintenance
costs are notably less than the 911 too, since parts for the
four-cylinder engine are cheaper and fewer. Everything else on the 912
is nearly identical to its more powerful sibling which means just
about every body panel, trim piece and mechanical component is
available, along with a huge after market offering of performance
parts. Weak and rusted floor pans can be problem on northern climate
rust belt cars so watch out. Judging by the ads in Hemmings Motor
News, about $6,000 will get you a 912 in really good condition.
Hmmm. Our car is approaching ``really good condition''. But it
still takes time and money to get and keep it there. I was lucky to
get an example with a good engine. The rest of the car is the same
cost to maintain as a 911.
Replaced the front
right turn signal lens. We got the part in early July, but never took
the time to do the work. Replacement lamp assemblies are very
expensive and not that easy to find. Used ones do not look good. You
can get either Euro or US lenses. This is an easy job! It took me
about 30 minutes.
Cleaned and used naval jelly in the rusted area under the passenger
door. The purpose is to slow down the rust until it can be properly
repaired. Otherwise it could spread very quickly - and it may in spite
of this effort because it is impossible to get to all affected
Added pictures of the Lodi
Added pictures of the front pan and fuel
I've been working on
reducing the interior car noise over the last couple of days. The car
stereo installers use sound dampening material from
Dynamat to reduce noise. The material is
available in kits which may have three grades of material, Original,
Premium and Xtreme. Each of these are a sound deadening material
with an adhesive back. The kits are expensive, but the noise was
loud. I bought the trunk kit and then an additional 4 square feet of
the Xtreme material. I have added dampening material to the inside of
the door panels, on the flat panel under the rear window and inside
the engine compartment. The most time has been spent in the engine
compartment. I used the Xtreme material to cover the rear fender
areas and the firewall. It seems to work. Asha commented yesterday
that the car is quieter than before. However, the high frequency
sounds from the generator and fan come through pretty well.
Today I added the
insulation blanket over the top of the Xtreme material, which seems
to attenuate the high frequencies by a couple of DB. Sorry, but
although I have a DB meter, I can not quantify the improvements
because I have not been taking measurements under any standard
conditions as the project has proceeded. The picture shows my
technique for applying pressure on the top of the engine compartment.
I did some more adjustment to the drivers door striker plate.
There was a bit of interference between the outer edge of the plate
and the door cam. I added another thickness of gasket material and
solved that. The plate was not able to move close enough the center
line of the car. A dremel tool was used to enlarge the top mounting
hole. Finally I improved the alignment of the window by adjusting the
bottom socket head bold on the door. The door now closes more tightly
and with less force required than before. It also sounds much more solid
due to the sound dampening material.
Added a new battery hold-down strap as recommended by Don at Dels
We have an appointment to get a 4 wheel alignment done on the car on
October 4th at CT Automotive. This can
be done now that the front suspension is firmly tied to the car after
the front body pan restoration. They suggested the toe-in might not be
sufficient causing light straight ahead steering and wandering on the
highway. I added a bit more toe-in until it can be measured and
adjusted properly. It is an improvement.
How great it is to push the car not worrying about the front
suspension. There are no more strange clicks, creaks and groans
coming from the front as there were. The engine is strong, there are
no rattles, now if I could only figure out how to get the drivers door
to close tightly without having to slam it.
Changed the oil and
cleaned the oil strainer on the bottom of the engine. I was curious to
see what the strainer might be. Well, it is a circular magnet held
off the plate by stand-offs and captured between two large washers.
The magnet is in the oil supply, so has been collecting metal
particles from engine wear. It was pretty clean - no obvious filings
I tightened up the oil pressure sensor. It has been leaking. This may
solve the problem or there may be a gasket or O-ring that has to be
changed. Try something and wait. The little car demands constant
attention. Kind of like a mechanical pet.
Hurray! The short version is that I'm driving the car again.
The long version involves a lot of driving and a bit of trauma. I
was over booked for last Saturday; invited to a Wedding, had a golf
tournament and needed to pick up the gas tank in Oroville, about 200
miles from San Jose. The body pans were welded in place on the 7th,
but the gas tank took just as long to restore and got a later start by
a couple of days. My brother had agreed to drive up to Oroville to
get the gas tank, but on Friday he crashed his motorcycle and I didn't
get him back from the hospital ER until midnight. He is bummed out,
the bike is damaged and I drove to Oroville. Tee time for the
tournament was 1:00. I got to the course at 1:10, missed the first
hole, disqualified from the tournament, but was glad I played 17 and
had the tank in the back of the Disco.
The tank had a lot
of crud in it. The lesson seems to be if you are storing a car for
extended times, at least keep a full tank of fuel in the car. Best
case is a full tank of gas plus a stabilizer to prevent the gasoline
from breaking down over time. The POR15 folks
have both a stabilizer and a tank sealer. If you don't have a full
tank temperature changes will cause the air in the tank to expand and
contract, bringing outside air into the tank. If the air is humid,
these same temperature changes will cause the damp air to produce some
liquid water which will sink to the bottom of the tank and form rust.
I had been seeing rusty crud in the fuel filter - forcing regular
(every couple of weeks) changes of the filter. When we shook the tank
after removal it rattled! There was so much junk in it that I was
worried about rusting through. The cleanup process involved soaking
in acid (weak phosphoric, no doubt) and neutralizing a couple of
times, then sealing the tank. They even cut a hole in the bottom of
the tank in order to get clear access to the spare tire dome, then
welded a flush plug to seal the hole.
On return, the tank seems solid, is nice and shiny gray inside and
after a couple of hours on Sunday, the outside was clean, free of rust
and any peeling of the factory covering was cut back to the point it
adhered to the surface.
On Monday I took the tank back to Dels, asked them to put POR15 on
the outside bare metal portions of the tank and apologized for not
being able to clean the threads enough to re-install the fuel level
sensor and the new tank filter. No problem for them. I re-purchased
the car and drove it home on Monday. Cost of restoration was $1728,
not including my time or transportation cost for two trips to
Oroville. The latter a function of impatience rather than necessity.
UPS does deliver to Oroville, you know. Well worth it to me. A major
problem and worry is fixed.
Added pictures taken at the
The new fuel tank filter ordered from Strasse last week arrived today.
The fuel tank is being reconditioned by Ron Zeitner of Vintage Auto in
Oroville CA (530) 534-1163. His shop was recommended by the people
who make POR 15. The cost is reasonable and Ron
does a lot of this kind of work, although his main business is
building custom street rods.
The car was delivered to Del's Autobody for restoration work
on the front pan.
Replaced the rear brake clips with new ones from Porsche. While
the rear wheels were off, pulled the shocks and adjusted them to their
softest setting per the recommendation from Up-Fixin der
In preparation for the car going to the 'Body Hospital' tomorrow
morning, I also replaced the left front hood shock strut with a new
one that was provided with the car by the previous owner. This should
the prevent the intermittent tendency for the hood not to stay open.
Replaced the broken return spring in the turn signals with a part
obtained through the local Porsche parts department. Ever since I've
had the car, the turn signals would not cancel. The problem was a
broken spring as was correctly pointed out in the Up-Fixin der
Porsche series from the PCA.
The $5.00 radio did not check out. The tape mechanism was faulty
including the switch that switches between tape playing and the
radio. So I broke down and purchased a Sony CD receiver and had it
installed. This is a departure from authenticity toward modern
technology. But let's not get philosophic about it. I now have tunes
in the car. And the CD gives me control of what tunes I hear. Life is
+ 08/15/2000 +
New value estimate:
I can stand this much depreciation! Particularly as our car's
condition moves to wards excellent.
Added a copy of the wiring diagram
for the 912.
Fixed the license plate lights by installing parts from the used
harness purchased at the Carlson Swap meet.
The brakes were squealing at low speeds. The problem appears to
have been wear on the rear brake pads leaving a ridge on the pad which
would rub against the edge of the rotor. The ridge was removed with a
file and the squeal has gone. The retaining clips are different on the
back than the front. They were installed in a way that served no
purpose. I rotated 90 deg. and now they load up the cross pins in the
same way as those in the fronts. These clips are different parts than
While re-installing the pads to find the brake squeal, the front
wheel bearings were cleaned and re-packed.
- Fixed problem that prevented expenses from being displayed
on the WEB site.
- Added a description of what I've done to the
I found an oil leak at the back of the engine today.
On Sunday Asha and I drove her Boxster to the Monterey
Region concours in Monterey. Enjoyed the trip, people, BBQ, meeting
Ken Brown and taking pictures of his
very nice '65/66 912.
The new Bosch H4 headlamps arrived. It only takes 20 minutes to
install them both, and this time I didn't drop anything.
The car is running very well right now. One major expense on the
horizon which is the front body pan restoration.
- Installed the left head light gasket and in
the process dropped the assembly, breaking the front class
cover. Sigh. Called Strasse to investigate replacement.
major redo of the site as a prototype for data driven WEB delivery.
Now all pages except the top are servlet supplied with much content
loaded database tables. Uses a template engine in order to separate
business rules and data access from the view. I'm pleased with the
technology. Look and feel is controled by including common template
files. Change the template and the whole site can change
appearance. Way cool!
Recieved the Valve cover gaskets, New rubber gaskets
for the head light rim to fender, Carburetor synchronizer, and Front
body pan replacement kit.
Gased car. Now up to 18 mpg. I don't think there were any leaks fixed
during this tank, so I can expect the milage to stabilize here for the
kind of driving I'm doing now. It is only 3-4 miles to work and that
does not help the milage.
Gabe at Strasse called to say my parts shipped today (valve cover
gaskets, head light seal, carb synchronizer and front body pan
Adjusted valves back to factory specs after a trip to my Mom's house
with Asha. Her comment after the ride was "Click, click, click".
Guess the valves were too noisy. Also changed oil and cleaned out the
fuel pump filter which had collected some rust.
Stopped to visit Del's Autobody in San Jose. This is the Porsche body
shop that has worked on a number of concours cars in the area. I'm
planning for him fix the front body pan rust problem. It will be at
least 20 hours of work for him to fix the problem.
Added a WEB page on toe-in adjustment and
started another on repairing the front body
Added a WEB page on carburetor
Right front suspension is squeaking. It can be
reproduced by bouncing the right side fender. I wonder how good are
these 34 year old Konis?
The car does not track well enough at highway speeds. It probably
wonders +/- 2-3 in. side to side at 70 mph. Why? Possibilities
include worn suspension bushings at the torsion bar ends, either front
or back; the rusty front body pan may be flexing causing variable
toe-in; or the car may not be tracking well enough and needs a 4 wheel
alignment. CT Automotive has been
recommended to do the latter.
Added a WEB page on valve adjustment.
Added a bit to the ignition page describing
the procedure for static timing.
Took the car to HCP
Research for a tune up. Valves were too tight. Both intake and
exhaust were set to .007 which is a little loose on the exhaust. Carbs
are working fine in all their adjustments and were resynchronized. The
gas tank is rusty as evidenced by the crud collecting in the fuel
filter. The filter was replaced. Need to be sure to carry an extra
fuel filter. If the flow is reduced enough vapor locks will occur.
Harry said, "Valves were very tight! Reset a little loose, so you
may notice more valve noise than before. This is good. Fuel filter had
lots of crud inside, and new one even has noticeable crud
already. Obvious source is gas tank. Fan belt was worn and loose -
replaced it. Oil down a quart. I put some in. Overall, this is a very
Reworked the WEB site.
Installed the trunk carpet set. The kit is made from
domestic Perlon rather than the the German cross check material that
was original. A clear concession to cost over originality. This kit
was $110, the other $250.
Installed rubber deck lid bumpers on the engine lid.
Received car cover, air filters, trunk carpet set,
rear deck T handle, engine lid body seal and 10 light bulbs from
Installed the new air filters and the T handle. While the air
cleaners were off, checked the shock towers for tightness and motion
when bouncing on the rear of the car. The left shock has a bit of
sound and movement. This may be the culprit of the rumbling sound
when going over bumps at low speed. The rubber pieces at the top of
the shock look just fine although they may be compressed out of shape.
Got some Blaupunkt speakers. Fry's did not have any
of the connectors for the radio so connecting it all together is
problematic. I'm tempted to get another radio with CD player and put
it in the glove box using this one for looks. The speakers are 4
in. diameter and should fit nicely under the dash firing down towards
There is a rumble sound in the rear of the car that needs to be
diagnosed. It occurs when on rough surfaces. Might be CV joints,
motor mounts or shocks. The half shafts slide in and out easily. Does
this suggest worn CV joints?
Ordered air filters, rubber stoppers for each lid, the rear deck
rubber seal, and a trunk carpet kit from Strasse.
Installed the cover for the generator to keep out moisture and dirt.
Went to the Palo Alto concours with my brother
Rick. Unfortunately my camera's battery died after about 2 shots.
There were two nice '67 912s. One was the Guards Red one that
triggered a thought of getting one when Asha and I went to the
concours a couple of years ago. This is a fully restored car.
Some missing and the tachometer was bouncing around on
the trip back from Palo Alto. One of the crimp connections to the
distributor was loose which could cause this problem. Tightened the
Found a loose screw and nut in the engine compartment
yesterday while re-gluing the insulation. On right turns I was again
smelling gasoline. With the aide of a mirror, pieced the two problems
together. The screw came out of the carburetor just below the gas
inlet on the side.
Mounted the radio. Havent hooked it up yet. The hole
in the dash had to be enlarged. Only butchered the right side. Sigh.
Checked the air cleaners. Yuck. Removed them until new ones can be
Re-glued the engine insulation which had fallen free. I really dont
have the technique. This time I read the instructions very carefully.
Maintained pressure on the top surface over night.
Changed oil and filter. Used Mahle OX79 from Strasse
which comes with the top gasket. Took 4 1/2 quarts, including filling
the filter housing.
Cleaned up some minor rust around the right hand jack point.
Added gas. Got 17 mi/gal on the last tank. This is better than the
14 on the previous tank, but should be getting above 20. Carbs may be
too rich and their may still be some leaks, although have not tracked
them down. Strange. Did not expect to be chasing gasoline leaks.
Got the final bushing for the shift linkage. The
first attempt at driving indicated that the rotational alignment was
not correct. Shifting from first to second would nick reverse. The
answer seemed to be to rotate the transmission side all the way
against the stop away from reverse, then to put the handle against the
gate on the right and tighten.
Installed the 944 seats. 911 seats also would have worked. Had to get
longer socket screws from Orchard supply, plus the bolts to mount the
seats to the plate. The tracks on these later model seats are
narrower. Adaptor plates are used to reduce the mounting
distance. This is a major improvement in seating comfort. Highly
recommended for daily drivers. Now I need a way to store the old seats
which would be required if the car is ever prepared as a show car.
The seats do not slide back and forth as easily as they should.
This is a combination of the dirt and old lubrication in the tracks
and the alignment of the rails in the car. They should be installed
with the rails parallel so there is no side loading on the tracks as
the seat moves from front to back.
The results of these two changes are the greatest incremental
improvement in drive-ability yet.
finished replacing the left side tie rod and lower ball joint. Whole
job for both sides took about 10 hours. Biggest problem was taking it
all apart. The bolts were hard to remove. Used the impact wrench for
the second side which helped a lot. The tie rod ends on both sides
were frozen on the tie rod. Finally broke them free using a pipe
wrench on the tie rod.
Ordered 3 out of the 4 bushings for the shift linkage. Discovered
the need for the fourth after taking it all apart. The rear ones are
replaced by cutting the old ones out. Then drive the pin out with a
punch on the top and the other end of the pin held off the table by a
Have cleaned the exterior paint using the Mothers Clay product
followed with Blitz wax. The clay works well on this finish.
Rust treatment on interior metal under spare tire.
Brought home some things from Parts Heaven swap meet
including jack, 944 seats, Porsche radio and a sun shade.
Replaced the right side tie rod and lower ball joint. Took a half a
day. The tie rod was frozen on the tie rod. Both parts removed were
worn. The tie rod end was particularly in bad shape. No lubrication
left in the socket at all.
Fixed the oil filler cap rattle by buying a Stant
11623 Fuel Cap from Kragen. The catches are bent on the old cap and
the internal spring is broken. It was rusted from condensation that
accumulates at the top of the oil filler body.
the engine compartment insulation when we got the car showing how
badly it had deteriorated. The rear of the engine compartment had big
sheets of this that had fallen off. The surface of the sides was
powdery. A real mess.
Installed the main engine insulation on the back firewall. Getting
3M Trim Adhesive to stick is a problem for me. Obviously I don't know
the technique. I finally figured out a way to push up on the overhead
insulation long enough for it to secure itself (we hope). I put a
board against the insulation and then held it in place with a hammer
handle on the top of the engine. The hammer has a 5 pound head so it
presses the board up with enough force to hold the insulation firmly
against the top of the engine compartment.
Changed the two motor mounts at the
transmission. Inspected the others which are OK.
Changed the rear right brake lining. Acceptable access can be
gained to the fittings when the motor mounts are removed. The left
hand fittings are so tight that my 11 mm wrench opens up causing the
wrench to slip which will round the corners of the fitting.
Adjusted parking brake. Out of travel in the slack adjustment at
the wheels. Still too much travel for the handle.
Wheel Works installed new Michelin XZX tires and a
Changed the transmission fluid. Sebco 201 from Strasse.
Bought gas today. 14.1 mpg. Found and fixed another
gas leak. The gas line fitting on the left hand carburetor was loose
enough to drip making the carburetor wet with gas. Tightened it and
the leak stopped.
Added new wires and plugs. Car is running much better.
Replaced rubber fuel lines between fuel supply on the left side of
the engine compartment to the fuel filter and then to and from the
fuel pump. It was leaking, causing gasoline smell and obvious excess
gasoline consumption. This should fix both problems.
Checked and tightened front wheel bearings, but don't believe they
Installed new Bosch mechanical advance 050 distributor and electronic
points from Strasse. Tried to get electronic points for the 022
distributor, but they do not fit properly. Bought a timing light and
found the mark on the engine pulley for TDC. Number 1 cylinder was
adjusted to fire at about 5 degrees before top dead center at
idle. Runs much better. When new ignition wires and plugs arrive, I'll
take a bit more care on timing.
Used a chrome cleaner to clean off several areas of rusted
chrome. It works pretty well. The pits are still there, but this can
postpone the need to buy new chrome parts until other items are
Installed new three point seat belts. The floor
mounting bolts were the old style, elongated and coated with black
plastic. These must be replaced with new circular ones.
Installed the new 'blue' Bosch coil. The old coil is a larger
diameter so the clamp was too large. I solved the clearance mismatch
by shimming with gasket material.
Need new ignition wires and plugs.
Replaced the front two brake lines, flushed and bled
the brake system.
Received seat belts, new coil and distributor
points require a more modern distributor than the 022 that came with
the car. Evidently the 022 works off the cam and the newer ones need
an additional pin. Will know more when the parts arrive. Have added a
Bosch 050 to the order. This unit should be correct on the advance
curve according to Gabe at Strasse. Will keep the 022 as an original
part for the engine.
Added some more pictures to the site including
Ordered seat belts, electronic distributor points and
Bosch blue coil from Strasse.
Bought tool to remove door striker. 8mm 12 point
square internal wrench bit. Other end is 1/2 in hex drive. Lisle
60770. Made first try at adjusting the drivers door. It is harder to
do than I expected. The door doesn't close as it should. The book
suggests elongating the hole that the striker plate mounts on. The
driver's side is particularly bad and does not close flush with the
body. According to the manual, there are some design changes on the
door latching mechanism and they suggest and document converting to
the new style. I have the old style. The latch plate is supposed to be
vertical. On mine it is parallel with the body. The 8mm special wrench
is also used on the seat-belts. Part of the problem is the window rail
which is too low at the back edge of the door. Need to dissemble the
door to fix.
Fixed the brake light. The wiring diagram shows the
brake light voltage comes into the left side lamp socket and back out
through the engine compartment to the right lamp. Since the left light
was working it was easy to localize the problem using an ohm meter
which showed that the wire was good and the problem was in the socket.
Rick and I went to the Fresno Greater Valley Concours. Met and talked
to several 912 owners from the local area. They recommend going to the
swap meet at PartsHeaven on June 11th. Found many tidbits which allow
me to expand my 'to do' list.
Changed oil. Castrol GTX. The Boxster uses Mobil 1. I
used Mobil 1 on the 944. Strategy will be to use a standard brand,
change often and inspect the oil. If it stays clean for a couple of
thousand miles, change to the synthetic. My neighbor has a Corvette
and changed to Mobil 1. Now his engine leaks. Does Mobil 1 attack old
Did a couple hours of cleaning in the trunk, engine compartment and
interior. Right tail light is connected to the left. Understanding why
it does not work should be easy particularly if I could find my
There is an oil change sticker in the door: Service date 3/26/81,
mileage 93086. The speedometer only has 5 digits, so I'm assuming
that the current mileage is 105K. That makes 93K in first 15 years and
12K miles in last 19 years. The car was stored for at least the last
15 years, so these numbers may add up. The carburetors were redone
over a year ago. (Don said "About 200 miles ago". I asked how many
years that was and he said, "A couple"). I suspect that for several of
the previous years, the car would not run.
New battery ground cable
Signed up for insurance today. Bought what materials
that can be gotten from Kragen or PepBoys such as oil, tail lights,
battery ground cable etc. The battery ground is good.
We drove it home today and took the first few
pictures. Its time to start making a list of problems to be fixed and
improvements to be made. I can think of dozens of things.
An interesting ad in the paper. "PORSCHE '66 912
xlnt cond. Dave call 408 867-xxxx". He lost my phone number! Back
in business. Took Asha over to see the car. She likes the Boxster just
fine, thank you very much. She has a point, you know...
Don didn't call. After 34 years, how bad does he want
to sell the car? It has to be hard to part with.
I offered to buy the manuals for $250 and suggested he
should be able to get more from someone who was doing a complete
restoration. The manuals from My Porsche should be fine for me. Of
course, my $250 might be OK if he does not want the hassle to market
He'll phone tomorrow. Another looker called to see the car.
The 356C was rejected today because of rust at the
rear torsion bar. We have been told that problem is very expensive to
After giving my Boxster to my wife, I've found a 912 to buy from an
ad in the San Jose Mercury. "Porsche '66 912 xlnt cond orig owner
$8k 408 867-xxxx". Hmmm. The owner, Don, said he had picked the
car up new in Germany. It has the original owners manual, bill of
sale, shipping documents, shop manual and engine manual. My brother,
Rick, and I drove the car. Seems solid. Will make a good daily
driver. Let's see, Bruce Anderson
suggests the following values in the October 1999
issue of Excellence Magazine:
I offered Don a compromise amount for the car. He countered,
agreeing to the price less the shop manuals. Well, that's interesting.
After some research, workshop repair manuals are available from
My Porsche, $187.01
for the 911 1965-71 Vol I and II. The 912 engine manual is listed at
$57.35. These should do for me just fine.
I'm looking for an old Porsche. I've been driving my
seventh for the last couple of years, a 1997 Boxster that we got in
February, 1998. Asha turned in her beloved 1996 BMW Z3 1.9 in May. We
now talk about Asha's Boxster.
I found a pretty guards red '65 356C. A previous owner spent $26K on
||My first Porsche was a 1997 912, purchased used in Portland, Oregon at
the Porsche dealer.