Driver's Door

The driver's door has had problems since we got the car in May including wind noise, and rattles. Most annoying was the door would not close completely.

To Remove the Door Panel

The upholstery is in two pieces on the '66 car. Later years are different, particularly for the inner door handle. There is a covered curved piece of sheet metal at the top and a large flat piece of covering the rest of the door. To remove:

  1. Remove the two screws, one at each end of the piece at the top of the door that has the lock button protruding from it. You probably can do anything needed without removing this piece. Loose is good enough.
  2. Remove the window handle. Pry the round plastic center off with a blade. This piece has tabs which snaps into slots. Under it is a slotted screw head that will free the handle when removed.
  3. 030301-230.jpgRemove the arm rest. I use a tee handled Allen wrench that has been ground down in from the end of the tip at a distance about equal to the thickness of the wrench. This allows the wrench to be able to turn the bolt at an angle from straight out. My driver's door handle has 3 Allen hex head bolts holding it to the door.
  4. Remove the large panel. Mine is fastened by a combination of visible Phillips head screws and snap fittings along the bottom of the panel. Some of the snap fittings have broken and are replaced with screws.


The door sounded tiny. After removing the panel, it was obvious that the original insulation was no longer effective. It was not even attached on one of the doors. The best sound dampening solution is the Dynamat Xtreme insulation that I purchased from a auto stereo store and also used in the engine compartment. It is a visco-elastic material with adhesive on one side and an aluminum layer on the other. You can see a view of the material through the open window class by clicking on the second picture below.

There were rattles in the door. Some were because felt pads between the rods used for the door lock and the door had fallen off. Other rattles were from interior Allen head bolts that were loose.

Striker Plate

The door would not close properly. I did a lot of work with the striker plate but it never worked well. The door would not close all the way. This turned out to be the a problem of the meal strip over the edge of the carpet on the door sill having been installed backwards. The wide edge was to the outside, preventing the door from closing.

The striker plate needs to be shimmed so the door latch does not catch the outer edge of the striker. You can actually look into the area as the door is close by getting you eye close to the edge of the door.

Another trick is to remove the striker plate altogether when adjusting or checking how the door closes. This is how I finally discovered what was preventing the door from closing all the way.

The top of the window can be moved up and down as well as in and out. There are Allen head socket bolts at the top and bottom of the door with access through holes in the door. These holes should be covered with rubber or plastic covers. The covers are still available from Porsche and should be installed to reduce the noise from the door.


Click on the thumb nail pictures to make sense of these pictures.
030301-226 The long chrome metal edge strip was installed with the wide side to the outside. It was wide enough to prevent the door from closing easily. If you ever have occasion to remove this strip, don't forget to replace it with the narrow side toward the outside of the car.
030301-227 There are several interesting items in this picture that are discussed above in the Rattles section including extreme sound insulation material on the inside of the door. More 'stick-on' sound insulation on the outer panels. And finally the rods for the door lock have pieces of felt on them to prevent rattling against the door panel.
Last modified: Sat, 01 Mar 2003


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